Bastille Day

Rockets explode in a shower of red and green sparks. Catherine wheels whizz round on the other side of the lake, their fiery, galaxy-like trails reflected in the dark water. The noise is incredible. The crowd oohs and ahs at the increasingly elaborate display. This is Bastille Day, when the French formally celebrate republican ideals and French unity. More commonly, though, it’s a good excuse for a day off and a party.

Since it falls on a Thursday this year, most French people will take the Friday off as well, known as ‘faire le pont’ – making the bridge between Thursday and the weekend.

Why 14th July?

The 14th July is not called Bastille Day in French. The French refer to it either as ‘le quatorze juillet’ or ‘la fête nationale’. Nowadays, most people think it refers simply to the storming of the Bastille prison in Paris on 14th July 1789 but it also commemorates the Fête de la Fédération. This was a big celebration held on 14th July 1790 to mark the anniversary of the capture of the Bastille the previous year. It has become symbolic of the birth of the modern French state.

The events of 14th July 1789 followed the failure to get agreement among the three Estates – nobility, clergy and commoners – about constitutional reforms. In the face of united defiance by the Third Estate, Louis XVI had agreed to rule as a constitutional monarch and to abolish fiscal privileges enjoyed by the other two estates. However, he intended to maintain feudalism and efforts at compromise foundered on the refusal of the aristocracy to accept its abolition, for which the Third Estate was pressing.

The army was called out to force the Third Estate into submission but mass demonstrations in Paris turned into an organised revolt.  The people of Paris, fearing that the army would be used against them, stormed the Bastille Prison – also an arsenal – where political prisoners were held without right of appeal. At the time, however, there were only seven prisoners, no doubt somewhat bemused by this turn of events. This fact was glossed over and the event became a symbol of opposition to royal repression and aristocratic privilege.

The capture of the Bastille sparked off a chain reaction in the provinces and within a few weeks the former municipal governments had been replaced by a network of revolutionary committees. The rest, as they say, is history and, of course, it was all much more complicated than the brief summary here.

National celebration

Tricolor – Alain Rapoport © Photoxpress

It was not until legislation was passed in 1880 that the 14th July became the national holiday, although no doubt people celebrated it anyway. Under the 5th Republic, successive presidents have used it as an opportunity to address the French people. Sarkozy chose to break with this tradition when he became president.

Fêtes take place up and down the country today. The crowning event in most villages, like ours, is a dazzling firework display. It will be interesting to see if, in this age of belt-tightening, the displays are quite as impressive as in previous years.

Before we lived in France, we had the misfortune to arrive by ferry at Le Havre on the evening of Le Quatorze Juillet one year. The SF should have known better, since he had already lived in France previously. We drove off the boat straight into a celebratory procession. Our hotel was on the opposite side of town. The road to it was closed. Fortunately, the police took pity on a pair of unlucky foreigners and waved us through.

Finding a parking space was a nightmare: cars were parked at all conceivable angles in the most unlikely places – on top of roundabouts, for example. Eventually, and with some (alright, total) loss of sense of humour, I managed to manoeuvre the car into a space with two centimetres at either end. After all this we were in no mood to join in the celebrations. We should have done, though: what sounded like World War III breaking out kept us awake till dawn.

See also my post about the origins of the French national anthem, La Marseillaise.

Copyright © 2011 A writer’s lot in France, all rights reserved

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About nessafrance

My husband and I moved to an 18th-century farmhouse in SW France in 1997. I am fascinated by French history, rural traditions and customs and enjoy seeking out the reality behind the myths. I run my own copywriting business and write short stories and the occasional novel in my spare time. My husband appears here as the SF, which stands for Statistics Freak, owing to his penchant for recording numbers about everything.
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8 Responses to Bastille Day

  1. Deborah says:

    Fireworks very LOUD in Apt but there were fewer of them than last year. Afterwards the usual concert/entertainment was a strange robotic dancing affair to the much-beloved (by the French, not us…) Boney-M which lasted about ten minutes before they cleared off into the inner town and everyone left. We’ve had longer nights out waiting for a bus!

    (PS. Thank you so much for your encouraging comments about book – much appreciated. Publication nerves don’t dissipate for months, as success or otherwise lies in the sales…)

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    • nessafrance says:

      We went to our local one, but didn’t hang around for the musical entertainment, which is usually pretty indifferent. I noticed fewer English voices in the crowd than in previous years.

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  2. A very clear, interesting account of what it’s all about, thank you Vanessa. We were at our bedroom window watching a couple of different firework displays in the distance. One went on for ages – a wealthy commune somewhere in Indre!

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    • nessafrance says:

      Thanks, Stephanie. We went to our local display which was pretty impressive and went on for about 20 minutes. I thought I detected slightly less pazzazz (if that’s how you spell it) than usual but it was a good show nonetheless.

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  3. phildange says:

    Je vois que vous avez étudié la question .I agree most of the French would mention the storming of the Bastille about july 14th . But it is not the official celebration of this day . And we must not forget this . In the begining of the revolution people were incredibly naive and a lot of them believed it was done, they were massively seeking for fraternity and common love . The Fête de la Fédération highlighted this noble wish and for a while Parisian people could live this dream .
    The irony is one year later, on july 17th 1791, at the same place ( where now is the Eiffel Tower ), the bourgeoisie Garde Nationale still led by Lafayette opened fire onto a pacific crowd bearing a petition asking for the republic ( this was just after the king had try to flee abroad ) . This was the sinister slaughter of the Champ-de-Mars, which made French masses understand many things about the rich . You see, the Terror is never originated by the poor, they want peace and brotherhood, and the 14 juillet 1790 is a sweet dream made true, for a day .
    I find that inspiring this dream day to be the National Day .

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  4. phildange says:

    Hello . In fact the National Day, 14th of july, only celebrates the Fête de la Fédération .
    The government in 1880 was trying to cool down struggles between Bourbon and Orléans royalists, Bonapartists and Republicans . They judged the Bastille fighting too violent and chose the next year’s event, when for a short time, an euphoric feeling of brotherhood united the French from all classes and all regions ( fédérations ) .

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    • nessafrance says:

      Merci pour ces précisions. Nonetheless, the Fête de la Fédération was celebrating the events of the previous year on the same date, so the national holiday is bound to be tacitly commemorating the Bastille as well, even if Raspail wanted to distance the government in 1880 from the violence of the early days of the revolution.

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