Tag Archives: Aveyron

The Bells, the Bells: the Magic of Church Bells in Rural France

Posted on 10/02/2019 by nessafrance

In Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame, the loud ringing of the cathedral bells has turned Quasimodo, the bell-ringer, deaf. Some of you will no doubt have seen Charles Laughton hamming it up inimitably in the 1939 film. I … Continue reading →

Posted in History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, carillon de Villefranche-de-Rouergue, casque de Saint Grat, church bells, Saint-Grat, SW France, Villefranche de Rouergue | 8 Comments

Villeneuve d’Aveyron: Ancient Paths and a Historic Gem

Posted on 07/10/2018 by nessafrance

What do you think this building is? A small château or fortified house? A barn? All will be revealed below. Autumn is the best time for walking in this area. The days are warm and sunny, it’s usually dry underfoot … Continue reading →

Posted in History, Places, Walking in France | Tagged Aveyron, Château de Ginals, church wall paintings, Eglise de Toulongergues, SW France, Toulongergues, Villeneuve-d'Aveyron, Walking in France | 6 Comments

S.O.S. French Towns

Posted on 26/11/2017 by nessafrance

A few days ago, I had coffee with two friends in the centre of Villefranche-de-Rouergue. This Aveyron town, some 25 km from us, is one of my favourite towns in the region. It’s an attractive place, steeped in history and … Continue reading →

Posted in French life, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Collégiale de Notre-Dame, Montauban, out-of-town superstores, SW France, town centre decline, Villefrance-de-Rouergue, Villefranche-de-Rouergue market | 25 Comments

A Film Record of an Aveyron Family Post-WWII

Posted on 09/11/2017 by nessafrance

Just after WWII, Aveyron was a different country from much of France. It took a long time to get there from anywhere else, people spoke a different language and the way of life had existed for centuries. Change was happening, … Continue reading →

Posted in History, Personalities, Places | Tagged agriculture, Aveyron, Farrebique, Film, French country life, Georges Rouquier, Occitan, Rouergue, rural life, SW France | 5 Comments

French Flavours E and F: Two Aveyronnais Specialities

Posted on 16/07/2017 by nessafrance

Time for another instalment of my French flavours series. I realise I have only got to ‘E’ and we’ll never get to the end at this rate, so this week I’ll do ‘F’ as well and you get two for … Continue reading →

Posted in Food/drink/recipes | Tagged Aveyron, Aveyron recipes, Estofinado, Les Farçous, River Lot, rural life, Stockfish, SW France, Villefranche de Rouergue | 7 Comments

French Flavours: D is for Diablotins au Roquefort

Posted on 30/04/2017 by nessafrance

I have been continuing my researches to bring you another in my series of recipes of Southwest France. Here’s one you’ve probably never heard of – diablotins au Roquefort. I certainly hadn’t. Easy to make, with readily-available ingredients, they are … Continue reading →

Posted in Food/drink/recipes | Tagged amuse-bouche, Aveyron, Diablotins au Roquefort, French flavours, recipes, Roquefort, Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, SW France, walnuts | 9 Comments

Finding Our House in France

Posted on 26/04/2017 by nessafrance

Today is a very special one on La Lune. It’s 20 years ago to the day since we first saw our house. During our five days’ house-hunting in France, among the legion of properties we saw only two fitted the … Continue reading →

Posted in French life, Places | Tagged Aveyron, French property, living in France, Lot, property-hunting in France, real estate, rural life, SW France, Tarn-et-Garonne | 23 Comments

French Flavours #2: B is for lou Bajanac

Posted on 12/02/2017 by nessafrance

In my A-Z of traditional French recipes, I’m trying to focus on those that originated in southwest France, where we live. So I’ve eschewed boeuf à la Bourgignonne or blanquette de veau, delicious though they are. Surprisingly, I found a … Continue reading →

Posted in Food/drink/recipes | Tagged Aveyron, châtaignes, chestnut soup, chestnuts, French recipes, Laguépie, lou Bajanac, Rouergue, SW France, traditional French recipes | 8 Comments

Beyond Time: A Journey Back to Prehistory Part 1

Posted on 29/01/2017 by nessafrance

Ours is one of the more rural French regions, but transport networks criss-cross the countryside and commercial suburbs mushroom around its historic towns. And yet this part of France is peppered with the works of prehistoric artists and builders. They … Continue reading →

Posted in History | Tagged Aveyron, cave paintings, Dolmens, Grotte de Foissac, Menhirs, Musée Fenaille, prehistoric art, prehistoric sites in SW France, prehistory, SW France | 5 Comments

French Flavours #1: A is for Aligot

Posted on 18/01/2017 by nessafrance

The temperature was approaching -10C when I went downstairs this morning – outside, I hasten to add. This is the coldest spell we’ve had for five years. In this weather you want rib-sticking food; nouvelle cuisine doesn’t hit the … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Food/drink/recipes | Tagged aligot, Aubrac, Aveyron, burons, food, Laguiole, Laguiole cheese, SW France, tome fraîche | 40 Comments

A Cut Above the Rest: Laguiole Knives

Posted on 08/12/2016 by nessafrance

The Aveyron town of Laguiole sits at the edge of the stark and empty but stunningly beautiful Aubrac plateau. We passed through there several years ago on our way to the Aubrac cattle transhumance, which takes place every year in … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, History, Places | Tagged Aubrac, Aveyron, Jean-Louis Calmels, Laguiole, Laguiole bee motif, Laguiole cheese, Laguiole knife, Michel Bras, SW France, transhumance | 12 Comments

Appetising Return to Belcastel

Posted on 13/11/2016 by nessafrance

Last time, I wrote about a ghostly story linked to the château de Belcastel. This week, we had the opportunity to make a return visit to this plus beau village in Aveyron. Not only does it occupy a delightful setting … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Food/drink/recipes, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Belcastel, Château de Belcastel, food, Michelin star, Plus beaux villages, Restaurant du Vieux Pont, SW France | 16 Comments

Inside le Château de Najac

Posted on 12/06/2016 by nessafrance

At least a dozen years have elapsed since I visited the interior of the ruined château de Najac in Aveyron. This imposing 13th-century castle is a landmark for miles around, best seen from the opposite slope on a misty autumn … Continue reading →

Posted in Châteaux, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Chateau de Najac, French châteaux, medieval life, Najac, patrimoine, Plus beaux villages, SW France, Templars | 14 Comments

Every Château Tells a Story #11: Le Château de Mazerolles, Aveyron

Posted on 13/03/2016 by nessafrance

As you round a hairpin bend just before the hamlet of Mazerolles, you get a breath-taking view of Najac across the valley, crowned by its ruined château (pictured below). This must have greeted the chatelains of Mazerolles (above) every morning … Continue reading →

Posted in Châteaux, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Chateau de Najac, Château de Mazerolles, French châteaux, Mazerolles, Najac, Rouergue, SW France | 10 Comments

Every Château Tells a Story: #10 Le Château de Belcastel

Posted on 31/01/2016 by nessafrance

Although I have written about Belcastel, in Aveyron, I haven’t devoted much space to the château. Its story is that of a phoenix raised from the ashes. The fortress could so easily have crumbled into a pile of stone, had … Continue reading →

Posted in Châteaux, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Belcastel, Château de Belcastel, Fernand Pouillon, patrimoine, Plus beaux villages de France, Restaurant du Vieux Pont, Rodez, Saunhac family, SW France | 8 Comments

Things to Do in Southwest France 2015

Posted on 06/01/2015 by nessafrance

We’ve lived here since 1997, but many things remain that we haven’t seen or done. As I have often remarked, once you get settled in a place, daily life tends to take over and you are no longer a … Continue reading →

Posted in French life, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Beaumont-de-Lomagne, Cordes-sur-Ciel, Lalbenque truffle market, Lot, Rodez, SW France, Tarn, Tarn-et-Garonne, things to do in SW France, Toulouse Violet Festival, Villefranche de Rouergue | 6 Comments

Every Château Tells a Story #2: Le Château de Najac

Posted on 18/11/2014 by nessafrance

On autumn mornings, it rises out of the mist, perched on top of its pinnacle; while on summer evenings, it seems to float in the sky, lit from below. The fortress is a landmark for miles around, standing sentinel … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Châteaux, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Chateau de Najac, Croquants, French Wars of Religion, Hundred Years War, Najac, patrimoine, SW France, Templars | 15 Comments

Weather for Walks: October 2014 Weather in SW France

Posted on 04/11/2014 by nessafrance

We took advantage of the continuing spell of glorious weather last weekend to do one of our favourite walks, along part of the Viaur Valley. I mentioned this in my previous post. It’s a walk that’s best done on … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Places, Walking in France, Weather | Tagged Aveyron, Lagarde-Viaur, rainfall, River Viaur, SW France, SW France weather, Tarn, Viaur Valley, Weather | 8 Comments

Gardens and SW France Weather May 2014

Posted on 05/06/2014 by nessafrance

In early June every year, Rendezvous aux Jardins (national gardens weekend) takes place. We make a point of visiting at least one garden during the event. I normally leave green (appropriately) with envy and wish that my garden looked anywhere … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, French life, Gardening, Weather | Tagged Aveyron, gardening, rainfall, Rendezvous aux Jardins, SW France weather, Villeneuve-d'Aveyron, Weather | 1 Comment

Goose Fat and Garlic

Posted on 08/07/2013 by nessafrance

A few weeks ago – only just found time to write about it – I attended the launch of a new edition of Goose Fat and Garlic, a book about the cooking and recipes of SW France. Jeanne Strang, who … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Books/writing, Food/drink/recipes | Tagged Aveyron, books, Ferme Carlès, food, Goose Fat and Garlic, Jeanne Strang, recipes, SW France | 15 Comments

Le Viaduc de Millau

Posted on 31/05/2013 by nessafrance

This bridge has inspired every conceivable adjective that describes big and impressive. And it is certainly both. I finally got to see the tallest cable-stayed bridge in the world last week, on my way down to the Camargue with … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Gorges du Tarn, Michel Virlogeux, Millau, Millau Bridge, Norman Foster, SW France, Viaduc de Millau | 16 Comments

Beautiful Bastide: Villeneuve-d’Aveyron

Posted on 20/05/2013 by nessafrance

Today is la fête de la Pentecôte (Pentecost) in France – for those of you who think I don’t know my dates, this was posted late on Monday. And in keeping with the tradition of public holidays it’s cold and … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, bastides, church wall paintings, Hundred Years War, Najac, Villefrance-de-Rouergue, Villeneuve-d'Aveyron | 15 Comments

Peyrusse-le-Roc: A Hidden Corner of the Aveyron

Posted on 26/04/2013 by nessafrance

Knowing that the fine weather wouldn’t last, I made a long-planned excursion into the Aveyron Département yesterday. I set off under wall-to-wall blue skies. The trees were fuzzy with spring green and the pastures were gold-tinged with buttercups. The farmers … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Châteaux, History, Places, Walking in France | Tagged Aveyron, Medieval garden, Petrucia, Peyrusse-le-Roc, Roc del Talhuc, SW France | 16 Comments

Najac Conundrum: the Answer

Posted on 30/09/2012 by nessafrance

In my recent post about Najac, I posed a conundrum. What is the protuberance on the side of the building above, about three metres up? I received some interesting suggestions.

Posted in Aveyron, History | Tagged Aveyron, bread oven, four à pain, Najac, patrimoine | 8 Comments

Belcastel Revisited

Posted on 23/09/2012 by nessafrance

Being rather occupied for various reasons at the moment, I’ll just share with you some shots of Belcastel in the Aveyron Département. I took these during les journées du patrimoine recently when, for once, we decided to be tourists in our … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Belcastel, Château de Belcastel, journées du patrimoine, patrimoine, SW France | 13 Comments

Najac Revisited – and a Couple of Conundrums for You

Posted on 19/09/2012 by nessafrance

Last Saturday and Sunday were journées du patrimoine (heritage days) not only here in France but also across Europe. Thousands of historic sites throughout France opened their doors, many of them free, and put on associated events and entertainment. We … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Chateau de Najac, Najac, patrimoine, Rouergue, travel | 18 Comments

Book Review: Aveyron, a Bridge to French Arcadia

Posted on 07/04/2012 by nessafrance

I don’t often do book reviews here. It’s difficult to strike a balance between being overly ingratiating and offensively critical. However, I am making an exception today to mention a book I have just finished and enjoyed about the Aveyron … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, Books/writing, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, Aveyron a Bridge to French Arcadia, books, SW France, Thirza Vallois | 11 Comments

Ten Things to do in 2012 in SW France

Posted on 30/12/2011 by nessafrance

Everyone’s thoughts turn to resolutions at this time of year. Last year, I suggested 10 things to do in 2011 in southwest France. All of them were things I had never done but planned to do this year. Well, I … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, French life, History, Places | Tagged 10 things to do, Aveyron, Lot, Midi-Pyrenees, SW France, Tarn-et-Garonne | 12 Comments

Villefranche de Rouergue: Past Glories

Posted on 19/10/2011 by nessafrance

It’s amazing how much you learn about a place you thought you knew, simply by taking the time to walk around it. We live about 25 kilometres from Villefranche de Rouergue in Aveyron and have shopped there regularly for 14 years. … Continue reading →

Posted in Aveyron, History, Places | Tagged Aveyron, France, market, Rouergue, SW France, Villefranche de Rouergue | 9 Comments

Walking the Viaur Valley

Posted on 12/10/2011 by nessafrance

After a weekend of cold winds and low temperatures – I was picking walnuts wearing a woolly hat and a jacket on Sunday – the weather turned again on Monday. A cloudless blue sky and temperatures in the mid-20s … Continue reading →